Thursday, July 14, 2011

Edgeøya Island - July 14

The ship's intercom announced that the guides were checking out possible landing sites for the zodiacs on Edgeøya Island so we should stand by.  About 15 minutes later, we were told that there would be no shore excursion that morning because there were 40 knot gusts and the zodiacs were not considered safe for their cargo of 8 to 10 passengers.
Out on deck, the wind was howling and it was necessary to hold on to the railing to move around.  On shore, blowing snow was accumulating on the hills.
The ship continued South and by early afternoon had found a slightly protected cove so everyone suited up with parkas, hats, gloves and "muck boots" for an on-shore adventure.  The zodiac trip was a bit wet but we all made it safely.
This was not quite as interesting as the other hikes, partly because of the weather.  There were more bird cliffs and more evidence (scat) of reindeer but little else to recommend the place except for the opportunity for some exercise.  After 4 hours in the wind and cold, most everyone was ready to go back to the protection of the boat and the possibility of a soak in the sauna followed by another dinner of more-than-you-should-eat delicious food.
The ship offered two interesting sites.  One was a group of walrus lounging on the ice right in front of the ship.  The bow almost pushed them aside but they never moved.  Life in the Arctic is rough and it takes a lot of sleep to recover.

The excitement of the second site was partly a function of the amazing "Explorer" coupled with the phenomenal skill of Captain Oliver.  Ahead was the 60 foot tall wall of a glacier that seemed to "go on forever".  The captain cruised along the face until we came to a river of meltwater that tumbled into the sea.  He then maneuvered the boat and when we were pointed right at the river, he nudged it forward until the bow was touching the ice.  I was standing at the bow railing and it would have been possible to easily step onto the glacier.  Of course, getting back on the ship might not be so easy so I didn't try it.
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