Commercial Internet signals are relayed by satellites that are over the equator. Because they are in low-earth orbits, they are only 2° above the horizon at 79° North latitude. Any farther north of that & they disappear from view. Since most of our voyage was above 79°, the ship had no Internet connection most of the time. Fortunately, the iPhone stores draft messages until the next connection.
The most well-known tangent is, of course, that of the sun's rays. The Arctic Circle, at 66.5° North Latitude, is that point on the sphere of the Earth where the sun is visible for 24 hours on June 21. At 79 to 81°, the sun never sleeps in July so we had 24 hours of bright sunlight. By convention the pace of the day was kept on Norway time but it was necessary to force sleep at 10 or 11 in order to get some rest every day before breakfast wake up at 7. Some days there was an even earlier wake up because of a bear sighting so I found myself tired or at least sleepy most of the time. The frequent shore excursions were good because 3 to 4 hours of hiking in the 40° cold was enough to make me sleep very well. This was particularly true when the footing was loose gravel or ankle-deep water or mud. In addition, every shore trip was a "wet landing" from the zodiac & this added to the exposure to the elements.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Friday, July 15, 2011
The final day - July 15
In the night, in a slightly rough passage, the ship sailed around the Southern tip of Spitzbergen Island to another small fjord named Gnålodden. The Norwegian word means "nagging" in English and it comes from the sound of the birds on the cliff above the shore. Again, the flying birds filled the sky and the raucous noise of guillemots (a kind of auk called the thick-billed murre in North America) and kittiwakes was almost enough to drown out conversation.
One feature of this site was an old trapper's cabin that was many years old but still used by Norwegian government workers when they need to plant weather monitoring equipment. The cabin is very small and primitive but it does offer shelter from the elements and the bears. Living there for the cold, dark Arctic winter must have taken, at least, dedication if not a little insanity.
On that theme, when we got back to the boat, a platform was set up between two zodiacs for the 35 guests who took the "polar plunge". Yes, you guessed it, that means jumping into the ice-filled water. I know you are wondering why I didn't do it since I am normally crazy enough to do something like this. Don't worry; I'm saving my self for Antarctica. There's always got to be something to look forward to.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Edgeøya Island - July 14
The ship's intercom announced that the guides were checking out possible landing sites for the zodiacs on Edgeøya Island so we should stand by. About 15 minutes later, we were told that there would be no shore excursion that morning because there were 40 knot gusts and the zodiacs were not considered safe for their cargo of 8 to 10 passengers.
Out on deck, the wind was howling and it was necessary to hold on to the railing to move around. On shore, blowing snow was accumulating on the hills.
The ship continued South and by early afternoon had found a slightly protected cove so everyone suited up with parkas, hats, gloves and "muck boots" for an on-shore adventure. The zodiac trip was a bit wet but we all made it safely.
This was not quite as interesting as the other hikes, partly because of the weather. There were more bird cliffs and more evidence (scat) of reindeer but little else to recommend the place except for the opportunity for some exercise. After 4 hours in the wind and cold, most everyone was ready to go back to the protection of the boat and the possibility of a soak in the sauna followed by another dinner of more-than-you-should-eat delicious food.
The ship offered two interesting sites. One was a group of walrus lounging on the ice right in front of the ship. The bow almost pushed them aside but they never moved. Life in the Arctic is rough and it takes a lot of sleep to recover.
The excitement of the second site was partly a function of the amazing "Explorer" coupled with the phenomenal skill of Captain Oliver. Ahead was the 60 foot tall wall of a glacier that seemed to "go on forever". The captain cruised along the face until we came to a river of meltwater that tumbled into the sea. He then maneuvered the boat and when we were pointed right at the river, he nudged it forward until the bow was touching the ice. I was standing at the bow railing and it would have been possible to easily step onto the glacier. Of course, getting back on the ship might not be so easy so I didn't try it.
See Photo Gallery
Out on deck, the wind was howling and it was necessary to hold on to the railing to move around. On shore, blowing snow was accumulating on the hills.
The ship continued South and by early afternoon had found a slightly protected cove so everyone suited up with parkas, hats, gloves and "muck boots" for an on-shore adventure. The zodiac trip was a bit wet but we all made it safely.
This was not quite as interesting as the other hikes, partly because of the weather. There were more bird cliffs and more evidence (scat) of reindeer but little else to recommend the place except for the opportunity for some exercise. After 4 hours in the wind and cold, most everyone was ready to go back to the protection of the boat and the possibility of a soak in the sauna followed by another dinner of more-than-you-should-eat delicious food.
The excitement of the second site was partly a function of the amazing "Explorer" coupled with the phenomenal skill of Captain Oliver. Ahead was the 60 foot tall wall of a glacier that seemed to "go on forever". The captain cruised along the face until we came to a river of meltwater that tumbled into the sea. He then maneuvered the boat and when we were pointed right at the river, he nudged it forward until the bow was touching the ice. I was standing at the bow railing and it would have been possible to easily step onto the glacier. Of course, getting back on the ship might not be so easy so I didn't try it.See Photo Gallery
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Polar bear #19 - July 13
The National Geographic Explorer is not an ice breaker, it is an ice pusher. Icebreakers are large heavy, powerful ships with hulls that are designed to ride up on the ice & then break it by the ship's weight. The hull shape then pushes the broken ice below the icepack so that a clear path is created. The nuclear-powered Russian ship that goes to the North Pole can make it's way through ice that is up to 5 meters thick.
The Explorer has a "v" shaped hull and a bulbous nose that projects just below the water line. It is designed to go through broken pack ice by pushing the pieces out of the way. The process is a bit noisy & progress is slow but eventually it makes headway.
There were many seals on the pack ice around the ship including ringed seals, bearded seals & hooded seals - all favorite polar bear snacks. When the call "Polar bear on the ice" went out over the intercom, 4 bears had been sighted including a mother with 2 cubs. This time we couldn't get very close without disturbing Mom while she was grocery shopping but we were able to watch. While the cubs rolled and romped a little way off, mom crouched next to a seal breathing hole like a giant cat. She remained motionless for 15 minutes waiting for the seal to reappear. This is called "still hunting" and works only if the bear chooses the right hole for each seal will typically use 10 to 12 such holes varying it's use pattern randomly. An experienced bear can smell which holes were used recently & guesses where the seal will appear next. Seals can stay underwater for half an hour & are very sensitive to vibrations thru the ice so the bear must be very patient.
After 20 minutes, the cubs got restless & mom felt they were too close so she abandoned the hole & walked downwind from a seal that was resting on the ice. When she came to some open water that was separated from the seal by a large patch of floating ice, she quietly slipped into the water while the cubs waited on the ice. It appeared that she was preparing for a maneuver called "aquatic stalking" where the bear swims under the ice & then pops up out of the water right in front of the seal. We observed for quite a while but did not see the conclusion of the hunt. To provide for herself & the cubs, mama bear has to capture a reasonably-sized seal about once a week while at the same time training her young to hunt on their own. We surmised that we could have witnessed a training exercise. All-in-all, pretty fascinating.
The Explorer has a "v" shaped hull and a bulbous nose that projects just below the water line. It is designed to go through broken pack ice by pushing the pieces out of the way. The process is a bit noisy & progress is slow but eventually it makes headway.
There were many seals on the pack ice around the ship including ringed seals, bearded seals & hooded seals - all favorite polar bear snacks. When the call "Polar bear on the ice" went out over the intercom, 4 bears had been sighted including a mother with 2 cubs. This time we couldn't get very close without disturbing Mom while she was grocery shopping but we were able to watch. While the cubs rolled and romped a little way off, mom crouched next to a seal breathing hole like a giant cat. She remained motionless for 15 minutes waiting for the seal to reappear. This is called "still hunting" and works only if the bear chooses the right hole for each seal will typically use 10 to 12 such holes varying it's use pattern randomly. An experienced bear can smell which holes were used recently & guesses where the seal will appear next. Seals can stay underwater for half an hour & are very sensitive to vibrations thru the ice so the bear must be very patient.
Polar bear #8 - Wednesday, July 13
On the National Geographic Expeditions website there is a video of a bear walking right up to the ship on the ice. It's really a cool movie but I expected it was a rare event. Up to today, the bears were a long way off (except for the swimmer) and only really viewable through the binoculars or spotting scope.
The ship headed south again thru the Hinlopen Strait and soon we were pushing thru the pack ice near Wilhelmøya Island. The naturalists & crew on the Bridge were constantly on the spotting scopes but it was one of the off-duty Phillapean kitchen crew who sounded the alarm. The announcement came over the ship's intercom, "Bear sighted on the ice" and as before, most of the passengers put on their parkas & hats, grabbed their cameras & binoculars & headed to one of the 4 forward decks. What happened for the next hour was a truly magical experience that the captain said later was a once-in-a-season event.
The shipped stopped in the ice & the young bear could be seen in the binoculars walking toward the ship. Every few steps he would sniff the air & taste it with his (or her) long tongue. Stefan, the bear expert, said that young bears are both very curious & without any experience with ships so as long as everyone was very quiet it was possible that he would approach fairly closely. Indeed, he eventually came close enough to sniff the hull. I was in the bow on the lowest deck leaning over the rail perhaps 15' above the bear & mostly holding my breath. This is what we came for!!!
Eventually someone on an upper deck dropped a camera tripod. The bear didn't jump but he lost interest & wandered off pausing occasionally to look back & sniff.
Later that day we saw 12 more bears but only #19 was close to being as interesting.
See Photo Gallery
The ship headed south again thru the Hinlopen Strait and soon we were pushing thru the pack ice near Wilhelmøya Island. The naturalists & crew on the Bridge were constantly on the spotting scopes but it was one of the off-duty Phillapean kitchen crew who sounded the alarm. The announcement came over the ship's intercom, "Bear sighted on the ice" and as before, most of the passengers put on their parkas & hats, grabbed their cameras & binoculars & headed to one of the 4 forward decks. What happened for the next hour was a truly magical experience that the captain said later was a once-in-a-season event.
The shipped stopped in the ice & the young bear could be seen in the binoculars walking toward the ship. Every few steps he would sniff the air & taste it with his (or her) long tongue. Stefan, the bear expert, said that young bears are both very curious & without any experience with ships so as long as everyone was very quiet it was possible that he would approach fairly closely. Indeed, he eventually came close enough to sniff the hull. I was in the bow on the lowest deck leaning over the rail perhaps 15' above the bear & mostly holding my breath. This is what we came for!!!
Later that day we saw 12 more bears but only #19 was close to being as interesting.
See Photo Gallery
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Lågøya Island - Tuesday, July 12
The ship anchored off the low gravel island and we went ashore by zodiac and formed groups for either the long, medium or short hikes. Each is led by an armed Lindblad/National Geographic naturalist who is an expert in natural history. Stefan, the Swede has been doing this for 11 years. He has the most polar bear experience & seems to know how they think. Richard, the Brit is a birder thru & thru & seems to be able to identify everything. Kenneth, the Norwegian was a trapper here & knows every plant and Ian, the Welchman could be an actor or a poet as he can create a fascinating story from a single rock or bone.
The island is also a walrus haul out so we carefully walked around a large "pile" of grunting, scratching bulls. A quarter of a mile along a spit of land there was the remains of a walrus that had been thoroughly scavenged by various predators. Nonetheless, the skin, bones & skull each told their own detailed story as skillfully described by Ian.
As we returned to the main island we were "shadowed" by 5 walruses in the water. The 4 adolescents dove & snorted while the more senior representative rose up several feet out of the water to check us out. As they were only 20 feet away, we got to see them "up close & personal". Impressive.
The rest of the hike was focused on birds & flowers in the boggy inland area. Since the soil if frozen just under the surface, the melting snow does not sink in & creates ponds, puddles and, in some areas, "boot-sucking" mud. A 3-hour walk might not cover much ground but it is a lot of work. After being in the 40-degree wind, the sauna felt really good.
See photo Gallery
The island is also a walrus haul out so we carefully walked around a large "pile" of grunting, scratching bulls. A quarter of a mile along a spit of land there was the remains of a walrus that had been thoroughly scavenged by various predators. Nonetheless, the skin, bones & skull each told their own detailed story as skillfully described by Ian.
The rest of the hike was focused on birds & flowers in the boggy inland area. Since the soil if frozen just under the surface, the melting snow does not sink in & creates ponds, puddles and, in some areas, "boot-sucking" mud. A 3-hour walk might not cover much ground but it is a lot of work. After being in the 40-degree wind, the sauna felt really good.
See photo Gallery
Seabirds cliff - Tuesday July 12
For 20 minutes, the ship remained bow first toward the cliff while the captain used a combination of rudders and bow thrusters to "crab" sideways along the cliff face so rhe "guests" could view & photograph the birds. Because this is a National Geographic cruise with a heavy emphasis on photography, the array of highest quality cameras & lenses should have really impressed the birds - or made them nervous about their privacy.
Finally, the ship headed North again bound for Lågøya Island.
Monday, July 11, 2011
Monson Island - July 11
Monson - a small, low gravel Island just North of Spitsbergen is a walrus "haul out" which is monitored & controlled by the Norwegian government. Visitors are not allowed on shore so the ship "hovered" just offshore but within telephoto lens range.
From the boat we could see approximately 60 male walruses (or is it walri?) lounging about. A full grown Atlantic walrus can weigh 4,000 lbs. and have tusks over 2 feet long. No polar bear would ever think of trying to attack a full-grown walrus - one blow from those bi-cuspids would be fatal to the bear. Young walrus could be vulnerable except the remain protected by their mothers for their first two years. The females are not as large as the males nor are their tusks as long but when their size and tusks are combined with the ferosity of a protective mom, the pups are quite safe.
Not long after we arrived, six adolescents entered the water & swam out to the boat. For the next 20 minutes, they swam around the boat taking turns rising up out of the water about 3 feet in order to "check us out". Once they had satisfied our digital cameras & their own curiosity, they returned to shore, probably to report on what they saw. We, in turn, headed south to continue our journey.
From the boat we could see approximately 60 male walruses (or is it walri?) lounging about. A full grown Atlantic walrus can weigh 4,000 lbs. and have tusks over 2 feet long. No polar bear would ever think of trying to attack a full-grown walrus - one blow from those bi-cuspids would be fatal to the bear. Young walrus could be vulnerable except the remain protected by their mothers for their first two years. The females are not as large as the males nor are their tusks as long but when their size and tusks are combined with the ferosity of a protective mom, the pups are quite safe.
Woodfjorden - Monday 7/11
The ship continued Northward, crossing latitude 80 North in the night. At 6 AM we entered Woodfjorden and almost immediately one of the spotters on the bridge picked out the first polar bear on the shore. What looked like a white rock through the binoculars or the viewfinder of my camera was clearly a sleeping polar bear when viewed thru the high powered spotting scope. Over the next 2 1/2 hours of cruising past the shore we spotted five more bears including a mother with two yearling cubs. Some were close enough to capture with my long zoom lens.
Number three wandered along the shore showing off his profile directly and in reflection. Eventually he entered the water and began swimming toward the ship. Obviously the captain is so familiar with the wildlife and with his ship that he knows exactly how to create the perfect platform for viewing. We slowed so that the bear could pull alongside and examine us while we enjoyed his power & grace. After many looks & sniffs the bear decided we were not very interesting so he swam off into the distance.
After dinner the ship reached the northern-most part or our journey at 80° 37' before turning further Eastward to visit Monson Island.
See Photo Gallery
After dinner the ship reached the northern-most part or our journey at 80° 37' before turning further Eastward to visit Monson Island.
See Photo Gallery
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Krossfjorden - Sunday, July 10
The ship traveled North from Longyearbyen until it reached Krossfjorden on the West coast of Spitzbergen. The island is considerably larger than I expected. It is mountainous with glaciers filling every valley. Most are "tidewater" glaciers meaning they terminate into the sea.
There are patches of snow but most of the landscape is bare rock. The arctic is considered a desert meaning it gets less than 9 inches of precipitation a year. By this time of the summer most of the snow has melted.
The surface of the land is covered with gravel or broken rock indicating that in recent times it was entirely glacier covered.
Continuously frozen permafrost is not far beneath the surface so there are no trees or large plants. In fact the only places where there is any vegetation are the areas fertilized by the abundance of nesting birds. Over 200 species inhabit the arctic. Because they are ground nesters, they migrate here to avoid preditors and also to take advantage of the abundant food supply in the sea that results from 24 hours of sunshine.
The ship anchored near the shore so passengers could go ashore by zodiac and hike the 2 1/2 miles to the face of the glacier near an area called Stefan's garden. We hiked in groups of 10 to 15 - each group accompanied by a naturalist who was equipped with a radio, a flare gun and a 30-06 rifle. It looked a bit like a prison work crew excerpt we had no interest in escaping from our guards.
Above us on the hillside were tens of thousands of nesting kittihawks, skuas, arctic terns, guillimonts, puffins and numerous other species. At one point six grazing reindeer passed high up on the steep hillside.
Under our feet there were numerous flowers including beautiful purple mosscampions and several varieties of pink to white saxifrage. See more Pictures
The temperature was in the mid-forties with continuous rainfall which our guide said was unusual for this normally dry climate.
We returned to the ship tired, cold, wet & hungry but fortunately just in time for dinner.
There are patches of snow but most of the landscape is bare rock. The arctic is considered a desert meaning it gets less than 9 inches of precipitation a year. By this time of the summer most of the snow has melted.
The surface of the land is covered with gravel or broken rock indicating that in recent times it was entirely glacier covered.
Continuously frozen permafrost is not far beneath the surface so there are no trees or large plants. In fact the only places where there is any vegetation are the areas fertilized by the abundance of nesting birds. Over 200 species inhabit the arctic. Because they are ground nesters, they migrate here to avoid preditors and also to take advantage of the abundant food supply in the sea that results from 24 hours of sunshine.
The ship anchored near the shore so passengers could go ashore by zodiac and hike the 2 1/2 miles to the face of the glacier near an area called Stefan's garden. We hiked in groups of 10 to 15 - each group accompanied by a naturalist who was equipped with a radio, a flare gun and a 30-06 rifle. It looked a bit like a prison work crew excerpt we had no interest in escaping from our guards.
Above us on the hillside were tens of thousands of nesting kittihawks, skuas, arctic terns, guillimonts, puffins and numerous other species. At one point six grazing reindeer passed high up on the steep hillside. Under our feet there were numerous flowers including beautiful purple mosscampions and several varieties of pink to white saxifrage. See more Pictures
The temperature was in the mid-forties with continuous rainfall which our guide said was unusual for this normally dry climate.
We returned to the ship tired, cold, wet & hungry but fortunately just in time for dinner.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
Longyearbyen - Saturday, July 9
The 1100 mile flight from Oslo took 2 1/2 hours over cloud-covered land & sea. Once on the ground we boarded a bus for the "tour" of the town. If you look up "stark" in the dictionary you can see it's picture. There are 2000 residents whose livelihood depends on coal mining, tourism & research. Svalbard is a territory of Norway and thus governed by Norwegian law but it's isolation and harsh living conditions provide unique challenges. (See morePictures)
To purchase alcohol requires a special license that allows a maximum of one liter per month.
No one takes solitary walks and no one takes walks of any kind without carrying a gun. The last fatal polar bear attack was in 1996 -two young unarmed school girls walking near town. The school is surrounded by a sturdy bear-proof fence.
It is dark for half the year & most people leave after five years.
After the short tour we boarded the National Geographic Explorer for our expedition.
To purchase alcohol requires a special license that allows a maximum of one liter per month.
No one takes solitary walks and no one takes walks of any kind without carrying a gun. The last fatal polar bear attack was in 1996 -two young unarmed school girls walking near town. The school is surrounded by a sturdy bear-proof fence.
It is dark for half the year & most people leave after five years. After the short tour we boarded the National Geographic Explorer for our expedition.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Touring Oslo
Sometimes it all works out.
The luggage which had been checked into United with the intention of being transferred to Lufthansa and then to SAS somehow made it one day later onto the correct Continental flight - arriving in Oslo at the same time we did. Ah, the magic of airline logistics.
The city of Oslo is undergoing an urban restoration. There are cranes everywhere. The old historic buildings are being restored and those without a historical pedigree are being replaced with glass and steel. The older section of town is brick construction as mandated after a fire decimated most of Oslo almost 100 years ago.
The city is very clean & people dress up a bit to go out which all lends the place a comfortable ambiance. Prices are extraordinarily high ($9 for a coke, $15 for a beer) but the portions are generous & the quality high. Seafood is particularly abundant with good variety and some surprising menu choices like "Maine lobster".
The highlight of the city tour was a park filled with over 200 statues created by the Norwegian artist Gustav Viegeland. (See more Pictures). Larger than life-size nude figures in bronze & granite depict the full range of human experience & emotion. The details of sinew & bone are amazing & the expressions accurately capture a dramatic moment frozen in time. Even for the tired, jet-lagged traveler it's a treat.
The sunny day ended appropriately with light rain making it easy to call it a day early to get some much-needed sleep.
The luggage which had been checked into United with the intention of being transferred to Lufthansa and then to SAS somehow made it one day later onto the correct Continental flight - arriving in Oslo at the same time we did. Ah, the magic of airline logistics.
The city of Oslo is undergoing an urban restoration. There are cranes everywhere. The old historic buildings are being restored and those without a historical pedigree are being replaced with glass and steel. The older section of town is brick construction as mandated after a fire decimated most of Oslo almost 100 years ago.
The city is very clean & people dress up a bit to go out which all lends the place a comfortable ambiance. Prices are extraordinarily high ($9 for a coke, $15 for a beer) but the portions are generous & the quality high. Seafood is particularly abundant with good variety and some surprising menu choices like "Maine lobster".
The highlight of the city tour was a park filled with over 200 statues created by the Norwegian artist Gustav Viegeland. (See more Pictures). Larger than life-size nude figures in bronze & granite depict the full range of human experience & emotion. The details of sinew & bone are amazing & the expressions accurately capture a dramatic moment frozen in time. Even for the tired, jet-lagged traveler it's a treat. The sunny day ended appropriately with light rain making it easy to call it a day early to get some much-needed sleep.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Ain't travelin' fun.....
Ya win some, ya lose some
The Reno to Denver flight was delayed by a faulty indicator light (I always wonder about those) and the landing was delayed by a thunderstorm. As a result, the Lufthansa flight to Frankfort left before our United flight even landed. To compound matters there were no more flights available that would get us to Oslo, United's system automatically transferred the luggage to Lufthansa and since their last flight of the day had already departed, all the Lufthansa staff had gone home. This meant an overnight in Denver without luggage. Thanks to United for the hotel room; thanks to the Rennaisance for the toothbrush, etc; and thanks to Safeguard (soap) for being able to wear the same clothes for several days without "offending".
The new plan is Denver to Newark followed by a direct flight to Oslo for a Friday arrival. And the luggage? Who knows!
The Reno to Denver flight was delayed by a faulty indicator light (I always wonder about those) and the landing was delayed by a thunderstorm. As a result, the Lufthansa flight to Frankfort left before our United flight even landed. To compound matters there were no more flights available that would get us to Oslo, United's system automatically transferred the luggage to Lufthansa and since their last flight of the day had already departed, all the Lufthansa staff had gone home. This meant an overnight in Denver without luggage. Thanks to United for the hotel room; thanks to the Rennaisance for the toothbrush, etc; and thanks to Safeguard (soap) for being able to wear the same clothes for several days without "offending".
The new plan is Denver to Newark followed by a direct flight to Oslo for a Friday arrival. And the luggage? Who knows!
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Preface
Seven years ago, I declared that I was going to take an adventure trip every year and go to those places I had read about all my life in National Geographic. I made a list and began my trips - Alaska, Peru, Patagonia, Polynesia and along the way I also completed my desire to visit all 50 states. This year's trip will subtract one more from the long list of things-yet-to-be-done.
Polar bears have featured in many issues of the Geographic and they are always one of my favorites at the San Francisco zoo; but seeing them in the wild has to be something special. The Churchill site in Canada looks interesting but it is a bit contrived. The National Geographic icebreaker Explorer trip to Svalbard has to be the ultimate (short of hiring an Inuit guide and dogsledding to the North Pole).
Svalbard is an island group 500 miles North of Norway and about the same distance short of the North Pole. The main island is Spitsbergen and the capital is Longyearbyen. It has been the starting point for many of the famous Polar explorers. To get there one flies 800 miles North from Oslo.
The ship looks pretty posh but the landscape is certainly authentic. The "expedition" only lasts a little more than a week so I'm hoping the bears are ready to pose. We'll see.
Polar bears have featured in many issues of the Geographic and they are always one of my favorites at the San Francisco zoo; but seeing them in the wild has to be something special. The Churchill site in Canada looks interesting but it is a bit contrived. The National Geographic icebreaker Explorer trip to Svalbard has to be the ultimate (short of hiring an Inuit guide and dogsledding to the North Pole).
Svalbard is an island group 500 miles North of Norway and about the same distance short of the North Pole. The main island is Spitsbergen and the capital is Longyearbyen. It has been the starting point for many of the famous Polar explorers. To get there one flies 800 miles North from Oslo.
The ship looks pretty posh but the landscape is certainly authentic. The "expedition" only lasts a little more than a week so I'm hoping the bears are ready to pose. We'll see.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
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